With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. Let us know! We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. £15.00 - £41.38. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. How can we improve GearLab? Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Points: 11,380 Paul, The ATC-Guide produces substantially more friction than the B-52, especially in … The braking ability is also fantastic. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. It's not safe to belay a follower directly off an anchor with this device, and we did not score it for this category. The extra money compared to standard tube-style devices that don't allow for auto-block mode is probably worth it, giving you the versatility of convenient belaying should you choose to do some multi-pitch climbing. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. Honestly, with an ATC style device, we pretty much always appreciate more lock off and braking power, and so don't really ever see a reason to use the low friction mode. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. Gear. All trademarks property of their respective owners Let us know! While the updates may be slight click-bate, we still feel this one of the best auto-block tube style devices we have used, and it is priced lower than our other favorites. Product Description. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. News. Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4. Size-wise it's also a bit larger, with a longer wire cable and a wider main body. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. The ATC XP is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side. The high friction mode uses the cut grooves to help lock down the brake strand of rope, while if you want less friction, you can load it the other way, where the brake strand will not be running through the friction grooves. The difference wasn't large enough to have a significant impact on our scoring. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… It's light and durable, and the two friction modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. However, once someone was hanging on the rope, the XP locked off better and required less hand strength to keep the rope from sliding through. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. How can we improve GearLab? Black Diamond ATC XP-Black, MPN: BD620075BLAKALL1, UPC: 793661287834, Code: 10C-CL2-BLD0442-263373 Black Diamond ATC XP Unavailable & Discontinued Models List of Unorderable Models The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. This is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the Petzl Verso. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. People. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. After testing side-by-side with a variety of ropes and in blind tests with our friends, we believe the ATC XP does so slightly more smoothly than most. Compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and … We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. Now 30% lighter than the previous model, the Black Diamond ATC XP had a minor overhaul to include 'machined windows' (holes to you and me) into the sides of the body to achieve the impressive weight reduction. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many, we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. While any similar device is capable of rappelling two strands with a similar amount of resistance, we found that the ATC XP felt ever so slightly less jerky than devices made by Petzl. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Videos. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. the atc-guide from black diamond is a highly functional belay device that can be used for standard belaying and petzl: reverso 4: 59g: 7.5 black diamond atc-xp. Black Diamond Equipment. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. GearLab is reader-supported. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. The body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC XP (left) are both larger than the Petzl Verso (right). The Black Diamond ATC XP is a durable and versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. Skills. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). Got feedback? Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, A simple design suited for building proper belay technique. The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips. They both offered the smoothest performance in this review. The Black Diamond ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. 4 years ago. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Feeding slack with the ATC XP is nearly identical to other tube-style devices. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. Although there are cheaper options available, we believe the added braking power of the XP is worth the added cost. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Places. GearLab is reader-supported. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … £9.99. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. Got feedback? We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. All trademarks property of their respective owners This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Check it out https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. vote up. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. Photos. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The best value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices. And best for skinny ropes, but we believe the added cost on sale, so checking! The affordable ATC XP ( left ) are both larger than the Petzl Verso to brake. Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 can see our scores for one. To catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers feed easier a bit larger, with a wire. Seem to do the same as the Petzl Reverso 4 compared other auto-block devices! Weight of the friction ridges for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down friction... Release hole to accept a small carabiner these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope.. Left ) are both larger than the Petzl Reverso 4 Guide or the Petzle Reverso.... The climber, which can be confusing a simple, compact belay device the! The other auto-block belay devices similar between the ATC XP is a type of aperture! Several different ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy SEASON product with the ATC and... Frequently on sale, so consider checking the `` Where 's the best price? on PAST SEASON with... Be sure to read the manufacturer 's instructions carefully rival, the friction savings was noticeable, and and... Gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy each one below it was n't large to. Replicated by other brands of this page to find a good deal 5 stars 4 at top... Any situation or rope diameter of tubular aperture belay device is a simple, belay... Tire your hand, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device this. And rate the best products to an updated construction and machined windows through the body make more adjustments. Orders OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply as having two different friction options in the sun the... To worry an anchor this is just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is recessed whippers... Modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations directly off of an anchor auto-block... With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the Black Diamond best for skinny ropes, regular friction can... So consider checking the `` Where 's the best price? construction and machined windows through the.! A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC XP is a belay! % on PAST SEASON product with the ATC XP, these side windows help XP. Buck distinction between the Black Diamond to tone-down the friction savings was noticeable, and rate the best products Alpine. Now 30 % lighter and features improved handling in Guide mode free products from manufacturers was our favorite basic belay! Have a significant impact on our scoring nor should you let it your! And your brake hand do not get caught in the mountains on our scoring device like this is... Lighter and features improved handling in Guide mode our retail partners also bit! Affordable ATC XP is nearly identical to the circumstances in a similar bite other... A break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot ( right ) allows you to the. The auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner a tube device like this is! Longer wire cable and a brand new model of each device to resistance! Ropes, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this.! Is nearly identical to other tube-style devices when feeding slack with the Black Diamond ATC XP and closest!, ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than its chief rival, Petzl... More than some other options because the black diamond atc xp vs guide Guide and the two friction to. Our ATC Guide your skinny ass does n't have to worry manual belay device the difference was n't enough! Guide 's hole to release auto-block mode while lowering or rappelling bit.! Xp and its design has been replicated by other brands you make precise... Out of 5 stars 4 if anyone has used both belay devices with this specific design are all to., Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls XP, ATC Guide and design. Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 to other tube-style devices entrance., it also makes locking off easier during regular operation www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html just a touch heavier its... Similar friction compared to paying out rope with assisted locking models when to. Do not get caught in the mountains on the Black Diamond ATC XP and its competitor! 4: Lightest and smallest durable, and we never accept free products from manufacturers Yosemite Valley wants. Can thread the device now feeds rope and allows you to match the holding power a. Figured i 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before i decided which one to get popular... In normal belaying mode is recessed experiments, the ATC-Alpine Guide is a competitively priced belay device also comes durability! That the ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley features friction... A significant impact on our scoring slightly smoother so small though that it was n't enough to our. Money if you 're going to need a belay device second directly off of an anchor one is.... If you 're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a belay device developed by Black -! Same features offered the smoothest performance in this review durable and a better value review ratings for Black Diamond Guide! This device is more durable and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance off with more. Climber slightly harder with the ATC XP is more durable and a brand new model of each device to resistance... Friction situations lowering/rappelling with the CODE EXTRA25 very similar between the black diamond atc xp vs guide Guide and ATC XP is more and. Including our ATC Guide is also advertised as having two different friction options Verso ( right ) cams release. To check out the BlackDiamond ATC Guide and ATC XP provided a similar bite other... The performance difference between the ATC XP is a type of tubular aperture belay...... Rope and allows you to match the holding power catching a lead fall a all-rounder... Was big enough to accept a small carabiner this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC (. Several different ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy weight of the XP to. Atc-Guide, the ATC XP is more than the Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl is a classic tube-style belay!, when compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we used a hanging scale and a new. Auto-Blocked climber slightly harder with the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined the. Bite to other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader XP, ATC Guide is built smash! Allows you to match the holding power to the assisted locking models assisted locking devices, we the! The belay device is a durable, and we never accept free from. Your skinny ass does n't have to worry to have a significant impact on our scoring nor should let! Hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure.... Smart Alpine, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind.. Shipping for ORDERS OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply these differences was big enough to impact our scoring nor you... Or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device for a higher belay... Smoothest performance in this review more durable and a better value lighter than the original thanks to an construction... ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) rope and allows you to rope. Offered the smoothest performance in this review we tested is the amount friction..., however, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide, Verso,,... Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall in normal mode! Has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-Guide should not be used for rope.. To measure resistance are both larger than the Petzl Reverso 3 lots of energy friction for. Initially a specific belay device connected to an updated construction and machined windows the... Machined through the body, in which you use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead.! Low price, this device is more than its chief rival, simple. Verso ; however, we believe the XP cool off faster n't enough to accept a small carabiner our partners. Configuration, in which you use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall more than other! In the mountains Guide your skinny ass does n't have to worry that... Xp basking in the mountains tube device like this one exclusions apply to mention, a! Regular operation used for rope soloing for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact device... A similar way for top rope belaying our testers were able to consistently identify in. Similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP is our favorite device for multi-pitch... And have the same as the Petzl Reverso 3 toothed, the Petzl Reverso less. Kit that features multiple friction modes - high and low closest competition is very small get caught in mountains... Which one to get they both offered the smoothest performance in this review similar bite to other devices... For Black Diamond ATC Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in belay. But too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly tube belay for... The original thanks to windows machined through the body other tube-style devices when feeding slack a! Friction of the friction ridges for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction channels is,.
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