The Edelrid Mega Jul is a pretty special bit of kit. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. It’s most similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul ($34.95) and the Mammut Smart ($29.95), but adds the benefit of a much softer catch. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. For general cragging or gym use with medium to fat ropes I highly recommend the Jul 2 over the mega jul. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. In TR the Jul 2 worked just like the Mega Jul, but easier, in two senses. I used the mega jul as my primary device through the summer of 15 and spring of 2016. If you have a habit of reading belay device reviews for some weird reasons Gri Gri is always ranked first or top 3. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. Apparently Edelrid didn't announce this change but snuck it in. Here is the operational video which Edelrid have released to go with the Mega Jul. EDELRID was founded by Julius EDELmann and Carl RIDder in 1863. It has become my number one go-to belay device. It is well worth watching the video to get some idea of the full range of use that the Mega Jul offers. There were two batches of Edelrid Micro Jul’s (batch 1/13 & 2/13) that had issues with the wire pulling out (the Mega Jul never had this problem, nor did any other batches of the Micro Jul). I don’t know how long. Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. This is by far the best device in the Edelrid Jul family and a great option for an all around device. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. That sums up my thoughts on the Mega Jul! The Edelrid Mega Jul. Also check out the Edelrid Micro Jul - a smaller version suitable for 6.9mm - 8.5mm twin and double ropes and 8mm - 9mm single ropes. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an amazing assisted-brake (loosely referred to as "auto-locking") ATC. In theory it's great, but I found too many compromises in real world use. The Edelrid Mega Jul is perhaps the most versatile belay device going around if you have the dedication to learn how to use it.. That sums up my thoughts on the Mega Jul!. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. Edelrid Megajul and DMM Belaymaster I've just bought a Edelrid Megajul and in the instruction manual one of the pictures with big cross through it has a silhouette of a DMM Belaymaster. Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay devices), scratches and notches the alloy of the krab you use it with. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. Using skinny, wet, icy ropes with mitts, I was quite aware that if my partner ever About us: The Climbing Zine was started in 2010 by Al Smith III and Luke Mehall. After A LOT of requests (and an guide mode update) we finally managed to get our hands on an Edelrid Mega Jul assisted breaking belay device...and on todays we going to take you through the in's and outs, the ups and downs and the round abouts that make this thing tick...get ready for some serious tech-ery and Matt's favourite catch phrase 'NEVER EVER EVER EVER LET GO OFF THE DEAD ROPE!' For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. I’m not bothering myself to find out when it was launched. This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. I originally got an Edelrid Mega Jul for use alpine climbing. Our crown jewel is our printed version, but we also do the interweb thing, and Kindle. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. EDELRID – MICRO JUL & MEGA JUL (EN) from EDELRID on Vimeo. The Mega Jul also weighs much less than the smart (65g instead of 125g). It continues to the day with the mission of representing the true essence of climbing. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. It had been on the market for….. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. In 2013 I tested the Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, my conclusion was that it was a great performing device with a little bit of practice. If you typically use a medium rope in the 9.4 to 9.6 range it's ok. At first, the company made braids and cords. Some downsides: The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the price. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. An innovative bit of design means that the Mega Jul auto-locks when the climber falls, once locked … Weight 69g! You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. For smooth rappels with Mega Jul use two HMS (not recommended by Edelrid, use at your own risk) + autoblock or use Edelrid Pure or Petzl Spirit binner as a handle (recommended by Edelrid, although the learning curve to get into it is kinda steep). The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. I think its best if they explain how to use it. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. (EN): EDELRID Micro Jul & Mega Jul This Video shows how to use EDELRID's 2013 presented belay devices Mega Jul and Micro Jul. We found this video on the Mega Jul to be quite helpful. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. The Edelrid Mega Jul is perhaps the most versatile belay device going around if you have the dedication to learn how to use it. Edelrid Mega Jul. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives … In fact, I now use it exclusively for both indoor and outdoor climbing. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. 189 . Since then I’ve plenty of them at the crag so it was great to get hold of the new Jul² which has been designed for single rope use. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Firstly it handles the fat, fuzzy, semi-static TR ropes that Earth Treks uses better than the Mega Jul does. Here is why: The assisted-brake capability is a must have safety feature. The Mega Jul Sport is a simple, light, and effective belay device. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. Good for belaying up a second and rappelling in both a high friction and a low friction mode. Julius Edelmann was a salesman and mountaineer, Carl Ridder a technician, who specialised in braiding machines. The new kid on the block. I originally got an Edelrid Mega Jul for use alpine climbing. The Mega Jul … The problem was that the machine stamping the wire into place wasn’t stamping it correctly. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The ABD that I personally use and happily paid for without any complain is the Ederid Mega Jul. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). The Edelrid Giga Jul belay device, MSRP: $50 Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. The Mega Jul … Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. The Mega Jul is rated up to 10.5mm, while the Jul 2 is rated up to 11mm, so this isn't a big surprise, even though ET claims these ropes are 10.1mm. Using the Edelrid MegaJul belaying leaders, abseiling and in guide mode belaying a second . The faces might have changed over the years but EDELRID remains an innovative a... Find Out More The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. PSA: Edelrid updates Mega Jul guide mode instructions As seen in images 8d and 8e here the locker passing through the rope must also go through the thumb loop. The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. You can expect durability and longevity out of this device thanks to its stainless steel construction. PRODUCT INFORMATION. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Disappointing. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. You can use it just like a standard belay device and it is safe to use with ropes from 7.8mm - 10.5mm diameter. I can't fathom why they don't want these working together. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a lightweight stainless steel belay device suitable for light and fast alpine adventures or multi-lap cragging days.